Starting to drape - original size

What would the flat pattern for the dress look like?

Now that we have an appropriately sized mannequin, we can start working on the original size pattern.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

Beginning to drape the original size pattern, with the reproduction size draping in the background.

The first piece to capture is the inner waistband. I thought it would be simple to measure out the placement of darts sewn into this grosgrain ribbon, and I had Emily and Lydia work on measuring that out. It turned out to be much harder than we thought, however, so after they left I took it on myself. The complication is that the darts are not on the straight grain of the ribbon, but at angles. The best solution was to use a modified rub-off technique, and shape a piece of muslin over it to find the exact placement of the darts.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

The darts at the side seams imply to me that the dress was made for a slightly larger size, but taken in for our smaller wearer.

The next pieces are the bodice lining pieces, front and back.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

If the top edge seems a little low on the bustline, it's because the proportions of our smaller mannequin are still a little off, since it started as a child's size. We're working not only off the mannequin, but also off of the measurements of the dress itself, which of course are more accurate than the mannequin shape.

Next, I had Lydia skip ahead a layer to measure the lace pieces that go over the shoulders.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

I also took a gentle rub-off of the lace inset piece at the top center front of the bodice. Then I took this shape to size up proportionately on my reproduction size.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown

Meanwhile, Lydia took a rub-off of the shape of the decorative fabric-covered buckle on the back of the overskirt.

To end her workday, I had Lydia transfer some of our completed pattern pieces to paper, using a pounce wheel, pushpins, pencil, ruler, and French curve.

From Research Process Part 1 - 1910's Franklin Simon gown