Tuesday, July 29, 2008

List of materials

Next, it's time to get intimate with the dress. I really need to know it inside out if I'm going to find answers to the questions we are posing. I started today by taking lots of notes about each part of the dress.

What are the different fabrics, trims, and hardware used in the dress?

Starting at the top of the dress and working down, I tried to identify each different material used in the dress, including both soft goods and hardware. One of the wonderful aspects of this period, the 1910's, is that while the silhouette is fairly simple, there is a rich layering of materials that adds incredible detail to the garment. But after my notes from this day, my total still wasn't complete - as Emily Leimkuhler (VC '10) and Liz Labrocca (VC '09) have been working with me on this project, they have pointed out materials that didn't make it on my list! After their input, the total is now up to 15 different soft goods and 8 different types of hardware:

-2 different peach/tan silk linings (slightly different shade from bodice to skirt)
-tan lace yardage with beading (middle skirt layer)
-tan lace trim, 8.75" wide (over the shoulders of the bodice, and filling in the neck)
-tan silk jacquard with geometric, pixelated pattern (overskirt, asymmetrical bodice overpieces, hanging piece in back)
-4" wide off white grosgrain ribbon (inner waistband)
-metallic organza - off-white/golden (pleated sash)
-coral silk (sash trim)
-off-white silk chiffon (lining of lace)
-off-white silk voile (lining of asymmetrical bodice overpieces)
-off-white satin (band that forms middle layer of bodice)
-off-white net edging (pleated trim at top edge of bodice)
-tan net (lining center front inset in bodice)
-2 widths and qualities of off white seam binding
-gold beads
-white beads
-buckle (decorative, covered in self fabric)
-3 different sizes of hooks: 3/16" (overlapping sash, meet with thread chain loops), 1/4" (bodice closure, meet matching bars on satin bodice) , 3/8" (inner waistband closure, meet matching eyes)
-1/4" snaps (skirt placket)

Here's a slideshow of some of the materials:

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